Category Archives: Wilderness
Grand Junction, CO
I plan on riding out my remaining years in Grand Junction, CO, so I thought it would be handy to explain why this place captured my heart. I have gone through a major life change over the last 2 years. Divorce, reconnecting and marrying my high school sweetheart, Pam, and relocating to Grand Junction, CO. We are building our dream home overlooking the Grand Valley which will be my 30th move. So why Grand Junction? There are some logistical reasons such as being half way between our families in the US. Plus I have lived here before working at Union Oil’s Parachute Creek Oil Shale Project and I had lived in Colorado 76-87 so I knew of Grand Junction.
My life started settling down after the chaos of divorce, I then focused on where to land. I loved my previous home in Oregon; the Pacific Northwest was an awesome place to live, especially with the outdoor activities that I was always pursuing. But Colorado is also an awesome place to live, but where could I find that perfect combination of affordability and adventure? Divorce does deal you a significant financial hit, so affordability was a challenge. Cost of housing in Colorado immediately eliminated relocating to a beautiful mountain resort, or the Denver front range. I did want some city amenities but did not want to live in a crowded city. Grand Junction was on my radar, so I did my research and determined the Grand Valley could be an option. Homes starting at $400K are good values. Then I needed to get buy-in from my new wife, who had very little experience with the west, not to mention her family is mostly in Ohio. So I took her on a 5-week trip around the west to show her my life’s path and to expose her to Grand Junction the beautiful low humidity weather of western Colorado. Life Transition Post
It worked, we decided Grand Junction would be a great place to live. A big part of our story is the opportunity we came across to build our own house with an awesome view of the Grand Valley, but initially we were just searching for an affordable house ideally with a view of Mt Garfield (right). I’ll leave the house story (which is incredible) to another post, this story will be about Grand Junction.
Adventure
Grand Junction does not need a post from me to bring it publicity. It is already known as a fabulous place to live in the West. I will just give my review to help validate what is already known, and my followers will better understand what brought me here. For me, the adventure needed to continue, and I knew it had to offer access to wilderness. I guess I equate the exploration of new things, especially in the wilderness, as adventure. Making my final home in Grand Junction is an incredible adventure, and having all that western Colorado offers allows the adventure to continue. The nearby adventure attributes include the Rocky Mountains, Colorado River, Grand Mesa, Colorado National Monument, Uncompahgre Wilderness, and the 5 National Parks near Moab UT. Those adventure opportunities typically take the form of hiking and backpacking for me, but I never knew how much I would appreciate these opportunities year-round. My post “My Goto Hikes Around the Grand Valley” says it all.
Weather
The weather in the Grand Valley area is fabulous which makes all of those adventure opportunities a year-long reality. It really is an awesome climate, definitely a desert semi-arid mix. I would equate it to living in Phoenix, except 20 degrees cooler and far less crowded. It does get hot, maybe 30 days at or slightly above 100, but with 15% humidity, all you need to do is chill in the shade. Winter temperatures can get cold at night but generally get into the 30s & 40s during the day. Those temperatures again are enhanced by the lack of humidity; you can be very comfortable in the sun if the temperature is above freezing. I wouldn’t mind a bit more snow; the average snowfall is only 15″, but it sure is better not having to worry about snow. But of course, if you want to drive through the mountains to Denver, you will have to deal with serious snow.
Winter Recreation
I will be 70 in a few more months, but I still enjoy recreation other then just hiking. Skiing has always been important to me, but I only need to ski a few times every winter to recharge that battery. Powderhorn Mountain Resort with 1650′ vertical is all that I need. I have skied most of the other big ski mountains, but my body can’t justify those prices anymore. Powderhorn has some great Blue Runs that totally satisfy my needs.
Nordic Skiing has not been in my blood since I was telemark skiing long ago around Steamboat Springs. But I took those 40 year old skis and had a wonderful time cross country skiing up on the Mesa thanks to the Grand Mesa Nordic Council.
The go-to winter recreation options for the Grand Valley typically means going up to the Grand Mesa which is less than an hour drive. However, options such as Aspen, Crested Butte, or Telluride are easily accessible. I’m actually looking forward to taking my grandchildren up to the Mesa for some serious sledding.
Summer Recreation
You can include all forms of warm weather recreation in the Grand Valley, but the most popular options, other than hiking, focus on water sports or the numerous biking trails, especially around the Colorado National Monument. I am looking forward to exploring options like Stand Up Paddle Boarding (SUPing) on the Colorado River or trying out some of the easier mountain biking trails. There are 28 miles of paved trails, mostly highlighted by the Riverfront Trail, which we have taken advantage of numerous times already.
Another activity that I am looking forward to returning to is Fishing, and oh boy, those 300 lakes up on the Mesa along with the rivers sure do encourage that.
Community
What kind of community is Grand Junction? It is a regional hub for commerce, serving a very large region of western Colorado and eastern Utah. This means having most of the big box stores and restaurant chains easily accessible. We can confirm the availability of quality health care with a couple of strong hospital systems. Quaint downtown commerce environments are found in downtown Grand Junction, Fruita & Palisade. Traffic is not really apparent, there is a saying that you can get anywhere in 11 minutes, and I tend to agree. Excellent seasonal events are highlighted by the awesome fruit grown in the valley, most known for Peaches. Other telling features are happy people working at the DMV or Post Office. Yes, Grand Junction is a friendly place, but the locals do not want to see their secret discovered. I guess this post doesn’t help with that, but reality does kick in, which means of course Grand Junction is going to grow, but there is plenty of room still available.
This is a short personal review of our Grand Valley that may help others find their perfect home. In the coming years, I am hopeful that I will be putting out more backpacking posts from the surrounding wilderness. However, age is catching up with me, but that may be the greatest value of this area for me. There are so many amazing easy hikes that should allow me to live out my years with nature.
My Goto Hikes around the Grand Valley
This post will highlight hikes around the Grand Valley that I use for training and bliss. This will also serve as my resource to use for introducing my grandson to hiking. I will try to link an AllTrails link for each hike to offer some navigation and directions. I would also recommend looking up these hikes on the gjhikes.com site.
I have set up this list from easiest to most difficult.
- Devils Kitchen Trail, 1.5 mile 311′ vertical
- Echo Canyon Trail, 2.4 mile 500′ vertical
- Mica Mine Trail, 2.6 mile 290′ vertical
- Palisade Rim Trail, 3.3 miles 616′ vertical
- No Thoroughfare Canyon Trail, to 1st waterfall ~ 3 miles
- Gunny Loop/Connector, 4 mile 480′ vertical
- Flume Canyon, 5 mile 500′ vertical
- Second Thoughts Loop Trail, 4.8 miles 636′ vertical
- Monument Canyon Loop Trail, 5 miles 750′ vertical
- Pollock Bench Trail, 7 miles 920′ vertical
- Rough Canyon Loop Trail, 4.5 miles 900′ vertical
- Devils Canyon Loop Trail, 7 miles 800′ vertical
Devils Kitchen Trail, 1.5 mile 311′ vertical
The Devils Kitchen Trail located just inside the East portal of the Colorado National Monument is perfect for getting started. I ended up hiking more then the 1.5 mile 311 ft vertical but that was because I was a bit rusty at using my hiking app. But this trail is doable by most anyone who can walk and the beauty offered the inspiration I needed. This hike starts from the Devil’s Kitchen Trailhead which serves the 4 hikes listed on the sign.
Echo Canyon Trail, 2.4 mile 500′ vertical
The Echo Canyon Trail in the Colorado National Monument is a moderately challenging 2.4 mile hike into what is truly an echo canyon. The waterfall is probably dry most of the year but the canyon and water spout is beautiful. This hike starts from the Devil’s Kitchen Trailhead which serves 4 hikes.
The echo canyon is the end of the trail and then you return. There are some minor boulder climbs of about 2 or 3 feet but not too difficult. There is a mining cave in the side wall, but it does not look like it was ever seriously used.
The hike back to the trailhead is just as beautiful. Overall this is a short hike with a lot of scenic value.
Mica Mine Trail, 2.6 mile 290′ vertical
The Mica Mine Trail was a 2.6 mile pleasant surprise for shear beauty. The reviews talk about the incredible rock formations which are totally confirmed. I was snapping photos all the way.
This is an easy hike, however, there are some high stepping in the beginning. You are basically hiking in a small stream canyon with very interesting rock formations, but what impressed me the most were colors & striations of the rock.
Of course the canyon rock formations grab your attention.
The added treat for this hike is the investigation of the old mica and quartz mine.
Palisade Rim Trail, 3.3 miles 616′ vertical
The Palisade Rim Trail gave me a different view of the valley and increased the physical effort to 3+ miles and 600+ vertical. This trail is located on the East end of Palisade up against the canyon wall created by the Colorado River. The distance and vertical were double that of my first hike but just right to create some positive pain in my legs. The fabulous views of the Grand Valley looking west confirmed for me how lucky I was to be living here. The trail is moderately challenging with a loop portion that highlights the view and the back canyon.
I recently returned to the Palisade Rim Trail to checkout the backside Palisade Plunge Trail.
No Thoroughfare Canyon Trail, to 1st waterfall ~ 3 miles
The No Thoroughfare Canyon Trail in the Colorado National Monument was intriguing to me because I wanted to hike the 6 mile version from above, but I needed to hike the popular portion of the trail from the Devils Kitchen Trailhead up to the first 2 waterfalls. I tried to climb above the first waterfall, however, I chickened out so I definitely won’t be doing the longer version of the trail from the upper trailhead. The beginning of the hike offers these amazing fortress views.
You come to a water pool area which is like a small waterfall, the around it is beautiful. You then climb up and over via a fairly nice step climb.
The hike up to the first falls provides more canyon beauty.
The first falls present interesting wall stains from the dry waterfall.
This is where I tried to climb up and over but halfway up I chickened out due to a narrow slanted section that if I slipped up would have been a 50′ fall.
Heading back down to the Trailhead was an easy downhill trek.
Gunny Loop/Connector, 4 mile 480′ vertical
The Gunny Loop combined with the Gunny Loop Connector is one of many trail options in the Lunch Loops Trail area of the Bangs Canyon SRMA. This Gunny Loop reference from AllTrails is pretty close to accurate. This map to the right shows my path. I turned this hike into about a 4 mile 480′ vertical loop with a side link up to a great lookout at 5424′.
This hike is one of many in the area which are designated for foot or bike traffic. I would definitely classify this route a moderate. The trail hiked clockwise offers excellent signage and is well maintained. The first half of the hike offers numerous excellent views of the Grand Valley.
The second half of the trail back to the trailhead provides access to small interesting canyon undulations with views to the South and West.
Flume Canyon, 5 mile 500′ vertical
The Flume Canyon Trail in the McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area does not get high marks for excitement but that is only based on the trail documented on Alltrails. I would rank the area as exceptional using the actual Flume Canyon Trail as a baseline. You definitely want to do the actual Flume Canyon referred to as the Inner Flume. Plus there is reference to the Flume 1 Trail which confuses what should be the best path. I came to a fork in the trail which I assumed was the Flume Canyon Trail because it took me into a small canyon to the east for the actual trail. The yellow line shows my exploration. I knew I was off the main trail but used a path that took me to a small box canyon. I did end up hiking about 5 miles.
Then it was easy to backtrack a bit and find a real trail that took me to the Devils 1 Trail which merged with the east side of the Flume Trail.
Shortly after rejoining the Flume Trail I came across the end of the canyon from above.
As I travelled back toward the trailhead on the Flume Trail I realized that this canyon was the true Flume Canyon and it looked like it needed to be explored. After about a mile I could tell that the canyon was shrinking enough to allow me to find a trail down into it. If I had stayed on the Flume Trail I would have seen the sign designating the Inner Flume which is basically what I was able to access.
Overall this Flume Canyon area was awesome and definitely calls me back to properly identify a new route. BTW, I met a couple my age who had set out to hike the Devils Canyon Loop but got stuck on the Devils D1 Trail taking them over to Flume. As I was leaving I found this out after I offered them a ride back to the Devils Canyon Trailhead.
Second Thoughts Loop Trail, 4.8 miles 636′ vertical
The Second Thoughts Trail is another hike from the Lunch Loop Trail System of the Bangs Canyon Recreation Area, BLM. This moderate 4.8 mile 600+ vertical hike provides almost a constant view of the Grand Valley. I started this hike from the Third Flat Trailhead, but it also appears you could park along the Little Park road and start. I went on this hike after an evening rain and there was some mud to navigate.
I also like the view over to the Colorado National Monument.
Monument Canyon Loop Trail, 5 miles 750′ vertical
The Monument Canyon Loop Trail gives you access to the amazing rock sculptures that you typically take in from the road above through the Colorado National Monument.
The loop is created by combining the trail to Independence Monument and the Unimproved Wedding Canyon Trail. I believe starting the loop counterclockwise with the Wedding Canyon Trail is the most scenic direction. The term “unimproved” is apt, with a few steep sections that slow you down a bit but are not a problem. There are magical views as you approach the Independence Monument section of the loop. This hike takes you below a number of scenic overlooks used by visitors to the National Monument. The photos follow the counterclockwise direction of the loop.
Pollock Bench Trail, 7 miles 920′ vertical
The Pollock Bench Trail is a 7 mile loop with 900+ vertical just east of Devils Canyon is accessed from the Pollock Bench Trailhead. This easy hike offers the different perspective of being above the canyons with great views of the Grand Valley. You are more exposed on this hike so ideal to hike this in the Spring or Autumn. The early part of the hike hits you with most of the climb and the best views of the Grand Valley.
The loop portion of the hike walks you around the top of various canyons that offer unique stone sculptures.
The last portion of the loop offer views back toward Devils Canyon.
Rough Canyon Loop Trail, 4.5 miles 900′ vertical
I enjoyed the Mica Mine trail so much I wanted to go back to take on the Rough Canyon Loop from the same trailhead. This 4.5 mile trek is listed as moderately challenging but I would categorize the canyon portion as difficult. You want to do this hike clockwise which means you start out going down the ATV road which is above the canyon to the north. This first half of the hike is easy with good views of the Grand Mesa. This trail also accommodates ATVs until you begin the return up the Rough Canyon.
The Rough Canyon return begins with a shift to a less travelled trail that comes upon a sculpted rock trail and scenery. But then you enter into the canyon which on this day in December had a white coat of snow.
The canyon then presents you with one challenging section after another typically requiring you to select the correct route around blocking boulders. If you choose the wrong way just turn around and try another. Lots of 4-5′ boulder climbs which tends to really wear you out.
As you start to approach about a mile from the end you come upon a a canyon obstruction that can’t be climbed over. Then you see stairs leading off to the left which looks like it means traversing along narrow ledges above the unpassable waterfall type area. It does turn out to look worse then it is, but you need to call on your no fear of heights mentality.
The trail goes back to typical boulder climbing, but it does begin to broaden out as you near the finish.
Overall a good hike that does push you physically.
Devils Canyon Loop Trail, 7 miles 800′ vertical
I needed a trail that would push me enough to validate whether I was ready for more serious hikes and backpacking trips in the mountains. The Devil’s Canyon Loop Trail located in the McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area ended up being 8 miles with about 900′ vertical, which when packaged with approaching storms, gave me just the test I needed. The lower portion of the trail before the loop is a nice hike, but the real magic is found on the upper portion.
I had a close encounter with a hummingbird (photo below), which provided me with numerous amazing photos.
The old shed/cabin signifies the furthest point from the trailhead when I realized that the weather was changing more rapidly than I expected.
I had to rush back to the car, which was actually a perfect way to confirm that I was prepared to resume my old backpacking adventures. The Adventure Continues now.
LCT with Coosksie Spur Loop
My recent solo return to the Lost Coast Trail carried with it many memories of my failed solo attempt back in December of 2015. My backpacking buddies were not able to accompany me so I was free to relive that 2015 experience on this year’s LCT. Plus the weather was perfect for my 4th adventure on the Lost Coast Trail. My goal for the first night was to get past the first small low tide point which has never been a problem but I wanted to set myself up for the following day to make it past the next larger low tide zone.
I decided to camp at Fourmile Creek to be far enough away from the elephant seals and occasional cow traffic to have a peaceful night’s sleep.
I had set myself up for a leisurely day that would end with getting past the first larger low tide zone toward late afternoon.
I hung out with the Elephant Seals at Punta Gorda Lighthouse for a few hours. BTW – the lighthouse does look better since it has been cleaned up in recent years. The seals were totally lethargic enjoying the sunny beach. Plus I had LCT all to myself, I never saw anyone until my third day. I was Chillaxing.
Low tide was around 6 pm so I knew I could eventually get past the first large low tide section.
That cute old Elephant Seal Girl laying on the trail was definitely making eyes at me.
This coastal area is strikingly beautiful with the crashing waves.
I guess my brain was totally absorbed by the fabulous weather and memories of how I attacked this trail in 2015 because I totally forgot about the impassable zone at Sea Lion Gulch which could have been avoided if I had remembered to take the high trail. This is my fourth LCT trek so I was not checking the map as I diligently as I should have.
So there I was was waiting at the Sea Lion Gulch point waiting for the tide to go out, but I was getting impatient. You cannot walk around this point when it is wet. Those loose pebble rocks are really difficult to walk on.
After slipping a few times on the algae covered rocks I realized that I would have to climb up and over the rocks that define this point. This is doable but I would not advise it for an old guy, however, I did it complete with some nice cuts and bruises.
Then came the long beach hike past Coosksie Creek and onto the safety of Randall Creek. But this was good because this is exactly what I had to do in 2015 when I had to jump into the ocean to get around this point.
I have always been intrigued by these unique striated rock formations.
By now I am starting to realize that my short February day is running low on sunlight and I am more tired than I expected to be so the approach of Randall Creek is highly anticipated.
I was able to set up camp at Randall Creek as darkness fell. The moonlight was still hidden behind the mountains but once the moon appeared it was as if a light was turned on.
I had thought about hiking down to Big Flat before returning to take on the Spanish Ridge – Coosksie Creek Trail but I determined that I needed a Nero Day at Spanish Flat to allow my tired body to recover. Plus this is what I had to do for a rainy day in 2015 so why not spend this glorious day chillaxing.
As you can see the weather was perfect, however, on the evening of Friday 2/18 the humidity spiked and everything got dewy wet. But the weather report called for sun by 9:00 am and that is exactly what happened allowing me to pack up for my reenactment of my 2015 overland escape up Spanish Ridge. I thought about trying to climb straight up as I did in 2015, however, that was aided by the typhoon rated winds. So I opted to take the actual Spanish Ridge Trail 7/10th of a mile back up trail.
My concern was about what condition this trail would be in. It was obvious that it is lightly used but I knew it could be done with or without an actual trail.
Being able to see all of this helped me understand why it had been so treacherous in 2015. The Spanish Creek Canyon forms a natural funnel that allowed the winds to reach extremely high velocity hitting me harder and harder the higher I climbed.
I was having an awesome remembrance while truly enjoying a really beautiful trail.
At 2381′ you reach the junction of the Coosksie Creek Trail which heads north on a ridgeline providing exceptional views of the coastline below.
This trail does give you some vertical and most of the time you know you are on the trail but you also need to interpret the terrain to figure out where the trail should be. Thankfully there are occasional trail markers which give you good confidence boosts. It did turn out to be a long day and I was in need of water as I approached the upper Coosksie Creek where I camped for the night. The next day I would take the Coosksie Spur Trail back to the LCT.
There are more times on the Spur Trail when you wonder where the actual trail is, this is partly due to extra trails created by free range cattle that use the land some of the year. However, you can see where you want to go and the official LCT Map shows you the drainage contours that you need to navigate. I also used a free GPS USGS PDF map on my Avenza App to validate where I was at.
Weather was still great but I knew change was coming. The wind was in my face but no complaints, I was finishing up an awesome adventure.
I got back to my car as rain drops started to fall.
This was my 4th trek on the Lost Coast Trail. My reference to 2015 was about my first attempt “I Lost to the Lost Coast” where everything went bad and I was thankful to have survived. This trek route was almost an exact duplicate of that perilous trek, however, this time the conditions were perfect.
Yellow Aster Butte
My preparation for the 2021 Devils Dome Trek included a day hike up Yellow Aster Butte on 8/29/21 which provided good distance, elevation and beauty. I chose this hike because I never really got to experience the upper portion of the trail back in 2016 due to weather that was not cooperating.
My 2016 hike was later in Autumn and I had gotten a late start that day so I decided not to climb to the upper view with the weather uncertainty. Brook was with me in 2016 and the Autumn colors on that hike were indicative of the trail’s name.
I wanted to get the full Yellow Aster experience and I also needed the workout of 7+ miles and 2500′ vertical climb. A beautiful Day made for a great hike. It was a Sunday so I knew that I would be competing with other hikers for parking and trail space. Many hikers were coming down after spending the night. The trail starts out with many switchbacks giving you awesome views of Mt Baker.
You can count on water from a mini glacier just before the final steep climbs.
The final climb, which is not really up to the Butte but to the peak just to the southeast of it is steep so your heart will be pumping. However, the reward of the 360 degree views are totally worth it.
I was fortunate that the wind was not an issue which made for an enjoyable lunch break at the top. These are the times when you really appreciate access to the mountains here in the North Cascades, I was totally ready for the Devils Dome Trek. The hike back down was predictable with anticipatory thoughts of Beer and Pizza from the North Fork Brewery in Deming on the road back to Bellingham.
Devils Dome Loop – Clockwise
I love multi-day backpacking loop treks and the Devils Dome Loop in the North Cascades turned out to be a jewel. I was a bit surprised to come across it only finding a few trip reports. The distance and vertical are very similar to the Timberline Trail but the the effort was far greater.
Most people approach the loop counterclockwise since the initial 4000′ climb is more moderate thanks to switchbacks. But I opted for the Clockwise route to coordinate better with the North Cascades National Park permitting for the first night. My common backpacking partner, Bryce, was gonna be challenged with getting there at a reasonable time on September 1st so I opted for a campsite halfway along the East Bank Trail at Roland Creek. We did not hit the trail until 7pm so night hiking was required. One issue worth mentioning, especially when searching for your campsite in the dark, was that the campsite shows up on the typical topo maps as being south of the creek when in fact it is north of the creek. But it did turn out to be a good site for setting up in the dark.
We hiked about 6 mile to Devils Creek Landing on Ross Lake where we had lunch and a rest before the big climb. The climb to Devils Dome or at a minimum Bear Skull Cabin was going to be the make or break for my body which is why I had been putting in extra vertical training in recent weeks. Water is an issue and the most dependable source supposedly would be found at Bear Skull Cabin 4000′ up. We were told that there was a stream at about 3000′ so we only carried 2 quarts which was adequate for our perfect cool weather climb.
However, 4000′ mostly straight up does kick your butt. Bryce and I slogged along and finally reached the Cabin after a 6 hour climb. I believe I got all that I could from my body on this climb so my training turned out to be totally justified. Now I understood why this loop is not more heavily travelled. The climb from the other direction is probably easier due to water and switchbacks, but 4000′ is a tough climb especially for an old backpacker. We did have a nice campsite just off trail toward the cabin. The night was totally clear with magnificent stars that I was too tired to enjoy.
The next day required another 1000′ climb up to Devils Dome which lived up to the hype for a fabulous 360 view of the North Cascades looking into Canada. The day was clear with some cloud cover moving in later, temperature at about 60 and no wind. This was as good as it could get.
Up till now we were also sharing the trail with the Pacific Northwest Trail, PNT, but that would end as we approached Devils Pass. Supposedly there is water on this 6 mile stretch but I don’t remember seeing any.
We were carrying enough water to make it to Granite Creek, which turned out to be our choice for a campsite after about an eight mile day. The trail over to Granite Creek was one of the most pleasant and beautiful stretches of hiking that I have ever experienced.
However, more campsite information would have been helpful. On the north side there is a campsite about a quarter mile up a steep trail from the stream. We opted to go to the creek assuming there would be campsites. Well, we only found one campsite barely large enough for two tents which was just south of the creek as you enter the trees. This worked out fine since there were hardly any other backpackers on this loop. And we did keep commenting on this lack of traffic especially on the long Labor Day Weekend. I guess the high vertical entry price to this loop keeps the crowds away.
Leaving Granite Creek hits you with a couple of tough 700+ ft climbs, the second being switchbacks up a fairly steep scree field.
These climbs were tough with legs that were worn out from the previous climb but were encouraged by fantastic views of Crater and Jack Mountain over beautiful valleys. The last climb was a bit precarious as you had to climb up a scree field with a few long switchbacks but also with a few really steep slippery sections. I think that I would rather be climbing here rather then descending.
We were again putting in about an 8 mile day planning to camp just before the final descent down to the Devils Park Trail which would take us back to our East Bank Trailhead parking lot.
We were again surprised that campsites were not more plentiful except for 2 to 3 miles up from the start of the descent. There was only one good campsite before the descent and it was fairly large but taken. Luckily the people there had scouted the area and found a hidden campsite a short distance behind theirs which turned out to be perfect for Bryce and I. The last day required us to descend down to Canyon Creek which was rather easy considering the number of switchbacks. This video captures my gratitude.
The long descent to the canyon floor.
At the crossing area over to the the Trailhead there is no longer a bridge, however, the stream ford is not to difficult. Plus there is a landslide just west of this crossing which forces you to ford the stream just to get around the landslide and back to the Devils Park Trail. Now you get to finish up the trek with a gentle 3+ mile hike along the stream.
Bryce and I agreed that the Devils Dome Loop is a special one, however, we would classify it as more technical or difficult. Our bodies were totally spent but it “Hurt So Good”. My advice, I originally planned to camp at Devils Creek on the 1st or second night to set up better for the long climb up to Devils Dome. One bummer for the trek was finding that thieves had stolen Bryce’s Catalytic Converter off his Toyota 4Runner.
Timberline Trail 2021
Yes, the Timberline Trail is the finest loop trail in America and my fifth year in a row trekking around it was another epic adventure. The bottom line though is that this trail is tough and my old body struggles to pull it off. Typically after the tough second day I really question why I do this. But the rewards are incredible especially when the weather is so beautiful.
Rather different to start a summer backpacking trek by making your way through a crowd of skiers, but that is Mt Hood. So starting out July 11th in beautiful weather with no chance of rain for the entire trek. Joining me is Shannon “Snuffy” Leader, blogger of Must Hike Must Eat. And to be joined that night by Bryce and Chris at Paradise Park. The hike up to Paradise Park is a good half day warm up which is a bit out of the way but totally worth it. The trail is so easy over to the Zigzag Canyon overlook, but then it is down and up.
Down to the ZigZag and then the climb up to Paradise Park. It was a warm day and the black flies were out so we did pay our dues to get an excellent campsite at Paradise Park.
Some of the best flowers were displayed on the climb.
Hiking with “Snuffy” was a real treat to compare backpacking prowess and stories but I had no interest in her culinary concoctions. But that is what Shannon does, she validates really interesting wilderness trail meals, whereas I just try to consume my evening Mountain House meal. This colorful meal that she made was supposedly excellent.
Bryce, Chris & Shannon 
Shannon’s Meal
Bryce and Chris joined us later in the evening in Paradise enjoying a great cloudless sunset together.
The second day after staying at Paradise Park requires a plunge into the Sandy River Canyon with the always exciting crossing of the Sandy. This year the challenge was medium, but mistakes could not be made.
The reward for crossing the Sandy is your visit to Ramona Falls. We got there a bit earlier then typical years so the sun was only at the top. But Ramona Falls is the best.
Just after Ramona Falls you have the option to take the high or the low trail to Bald Mountain. The high route has been devastated by a tree blowdown and is essentially closed but unfortunately Bryce and Chris forgot about that when they left us to accomplish their trek in 3 nights instead of 4. They completed the high route but paid a heavy price for their effort. There should have been a sign at the turnoff to the high trail, however, I believe that sign did not get placed until after we passed by.
Detour or Low Trail 
View from Bald Mountain 
Blowdown
This stretch of the Timberline is the toughest for me because of the 3000′ climb with no good water options. Every year this stretch tests my resolve and I contemplate why I do the Timberline. This year was as difficult as ever but as with every year I eventually make it to the great view at the top and the streams coming off McNeil Point. Our campsite in that area turned out to be excellent.
View of McNeil Point 
Second Night Sunset
The next day’s goal is typically to cross the Eliot Canyon which this year we knew would be the greatest test. But this stretch of trail offers some of the most beautiful views of Mt Hood and surroundings. The burnt areas from the Dollar Lake Fire 10 years ago now seem to offer a unique contrast to the lush green slopes. The Cairn Basin shelter did take a hit from a blowdown tree.
The Eliot stream crossing has been a breeze in recent years thanks to a large log that spanned the water but that log has washed away along with a lot of the canyon wall to create a new treacherous crossing. However, the greatest danger in the Eliot Canyon is just getting down to the stream. The steep approaches to the stream present numerous loose boulder situations, but we experienced that last year.
This year we also got to experience one of the most forceful river crossing I have ever accomplished. The video is of a hiker from Michigan.
This year the option to just stay at Tilly Jane Campground seemed like a good idea since nobody else was there probably due to the mess that has been made by more tree blowdowns.
Tilly Jane Creek 
Climbing up to the Main Timberline Trail
On this Northeast side of Hood you get to experience above treeline hiking which has become a favorite of mine.
The goal for the last night is typically to reach Newton Creek which has clear streams and good campsites. This year the Newton Creek crossing was a bit more challenging than usual. I do love the view of Gnarl Ridge from the Newton.
The final day offers many beautiful waterfalls before you enter the Mt Hood Meadows Ski Resort land.
Then down to the White River and the killer climb up to Timberline Lodge. The climb isn’t really that bad except that you are fairly exposed and pretty much spent from the previous 40 miles.
Mt Hood Meadows Ski Area 
Mt Jefferson from Westside of Hood Meadows
Thank goodness for visions of your post trek meal to carry you up the ridge of the White River Canyon. Once you see the lodge you know you can make it.
Timberline Lodge 
Halibut Fish & Chips at Barlow Trail Roadhouse
This year’s Timberline Trail again taught me a lot about my 67 year old body. Many times it “Hurt So Good”. I do believe I will return to the Timberline Trail next year, but maybe do it in 5 nights.
Alice Lake Sawtooth Mountains
The Sawtooth Mountains grabbed my attention in recent years and based on typical snowpack conditions it looked like a great trek for late June. However, I needed to move my visit up to the middle of June, but the heat wave we were in looked like it would remedy any snow problems. What I did not properly take into account was that I drove over to Idaho from 300′ elevation and my hike up to Alice Lake would take me from about 7000′ up to 8600′ and I was sucking air. I had planned to do the Alice, Toxaway Lake Loop but I had received reports that the pass between the lakes was a post holing snow challenge, plus I also got feedback that the mosquitoes were thick over at Toxaway Lake. So after the oxygen deficit difficulty I experienced climbing to Alice Lake and knowing that the pass was another 1000′, I decided why not just stay another night at my fabulous campsite on Alice Lake. I knew that I could day hike over to Twin Lakes and just relax in this beautiful area. Plus feedback also suggests that Alice Lake is the most beautiful so why leave? It is difficult for a backpacker to be practical when your plans call for a longer trek, but hanging out for two days in this beautiful place turned out to be another great Adventure.
The trail up to Alice Lake is well maintained but this early season climb required fording a number of stream crossings. It does appear that the stream crossings will provide rock hop bridges when the water recedes about 8 inches. This young family from nearby Stanley was using this trip as a Christmas Present for their 3 boys.
This is about where I was really starting to think about the nap I would need. Alice Lake has a lower lake that leads you to believe you have arrived, it is all good.
Once at Alice Lake you realize the awesome beauty of this area.
When I arrived at Alice Lake all I wanted was to find a flat spot in the shade where I could take a long afternoon nap. That is exactly what I did but when I roused again around 6 pm I wandered around to find the perfect campsite. I was rather surprised that it had not been taken. Word was out that Alice Lake was easily accessible so I had plenty of company at the lake.
Alice Lake was perfect. Total sun, warm but not hot, no bugs and an awesome night ski to view the Milky Way.
The next day I felt better but it was obvious that a climb over to Toxaway Lake would have been tough, so I settled into total relaxation mode with plans for a day hike over and around Twin lakes.
I also explored the stream connection between Twin and Alice Lakes.
Just as beautiful approaching Alice Lake on the return from Twin Lakes.
Now I had most of the afternoon left to continue my serious chillaxing. Thankfully I had plenty of downloaded podcasts (Various IU Hoosier Basketball and Backpacker podcasts along with “The Dirtbag Diaries” and, “National Geo Overheard”) that I could catch up on.
Just a beautiful day with another awesome evening.
I felt so much better after a couple of days at altitude. I thought about more exploration, but heading for home was motivated a bit by the sporting events (US Open) that needed to be watched. Packing up was so nice because everything was dry The hike out from Alice offered the morning view of the lake.
Hiking back to Pettit Lake seemed long but it was all down hill. This was a Thursday and so many hikers and backpackers were headed up to Alice. There was a group a healthy young hikers who happened to all work at Redfish Lodge. It brought back memories of my youth knowing how cool it was to take advantage of local recreation opportunities during that summer job.
Back at the Tin Cup Trailhead and the Pettit Lake Campground I needed to say goodbye to Jane, the wonderful campground host. She plans on taking care of this campground for many years to come, plus she is looking forward to also backpacking up to the many nearby lakes.
I drove back to Oregon by way of Stanley and roads that took me north of Boise. A few things struck me such as the frenzy of tourists wanting to start their weekend. Also very little cellular access, maybe Biden’s infrastructure bill will help with that.
I hope to return to the Sawtooth Mountains better prepared for a more complete exploration. This is truly one of the most beautiful places in the US.
Early Season TDH Get-Away
I was itching for a backpacking Get-Away so when the temperatures started to rise with guaranteed clear skies I headed for my favorite overnight at Tom, Dick & Harry Mountain.
I have done this trek many times but never in April when there would definitely be snow, but I did underestimate how much snow there would be. Early on the trail the bridges filled to the rail with snow set the tone. The trail for the first two miles was essentially ice which created many difficulties especially for the hikers trying to get to Mirror Lake.
The upper trail to the top presented more serious challenges such as not sliding down hillsides and just finding the real trail. Once on the last leg to the top I realized I should have brought my snowshoes, but it was doable even though I was questioning my wisdom in scheduling this trek. I knew what the reward would be at the top but I was also starting to be concerned about how strong the winds were going to be.
The winds were strong and the snow was deep so this was going to be a whole new camping experience at my favorite spot. The winds were ripping up the mountain so I was able to set up camp with a nice view of Hood and still get shelter from the wind.
I quickly realized that I had not properly prepared for the snow or the wind so I had to improvise with some rope tie offs to nearby trees. Thankfully those rope ties did the job as the wind never let up throughout the night. It was amazingly beautiful as I have come to expect, however, the wind prevented any comfortable viewing of Mt Hood.
The saving grace for the evening was that the winds were also bringing in unusually warm air so being cold was not a concern. However, major wind gusts pummeling my tent all night did not allow for much sleep. Plus my air mattress was not holding air so I had to blow it up about every hour. It was still beautiful at sun up, but the winds were increasing in intensity.
By 7:00 am I had to break down the campsite to avoid being blown away. The winds were fierce so I had to take an alternate path behind the view area to get to the shelter of the forest.
The hike down was not easy but it was downhill so no complaints. Overall the the ultimate Get-Away that I had hoped for did not pan out, but it sure was another great Adventure.
Lost Coast Trail 2021
The Lost Coast Trail has become my early season getaway, but the year since Conquering the Lost Coast Trail in 2020 fueled a highly anticipated return. Permits for the LCT have become more coveted so you select your permit far in advance and hope for the best. This year’s permit was for February 18-22 and the weather appeared to be acceptable, however, rain was in the equation. We decided to do a Yoyo down and back from Mattole to avoid the brutal shuttle road over to Shelter Cove. I had my normal concerns about my now 66 year old body, but I also was highly interested in how my new exercise routine, Supernatural on Oculus, might enhance my backpacking experience.
This year Bryce and I welcomed Jeff, an experienced Wilderness Recreation Professional, to join us and the 2021 Trekking season was launched complete with Rainier Jubilee Beer. I do believe Jeff thanked me for the invite more than 100 times throughout the trek. We arrived at Mattole Trailhead at dusk on the 17th and found a spot to camp on the beach. Thursday was known to have rain in the forecast so we were grateful for every hour we got before it hit.
Low tide would occur around the middle of the day making for great flexibility, but the weather would dictate our progress. The Elephant Seals were strewn across the Punta Gorda Lighthouse stretch but they rarely emerged from their slumber. I’ll use the video below to document the Seals.
We were not making great time once we got on the trail, I think we knew that the weather was not going to cooperate to allow us to venture past the first tidal zone, so we enjoyed a leisurely stroll. It started raining around 2 pm and the wind out of the SW appeared to be an issue so we were looking for a campsite with a wind break. We ended up choosing the green knoll just as you enter into the overland section past Sea Lion Gulch.
We were able to get camp setup as the rain became more significant. By 4pm the rain had forced us into our tents for the remainder of the day and night. We had a significant amount of rain and the accompanying wind made it difficult to keep the moisture at bay. This is when you wish you had downloaded more media options to your phone to fill your time. But the rain began to retreat the following morning allowing us to pack up our wet gear and proceed south.
We were highly encouraged by the sight of blue skies but were were in for a weather mixed day which would include difficult stream crossing thanks to the overnight rain. (Stream Crossing Video later in the Post)
The weather bounced between a windy rain in our face to beautiful sunny breakouts. We were now hiking on the overland trail but needed to return to the beach at about the 5.5 mile mark. This turned out to be a bit precarious due to the recent rain. You have about a 20 foot drop down a steep eroding gully. Bryce ended up in surf slide down complete with a spill at the end, but no injury.
We were optimistic coming out of the tidal zone with beautiful sunbreaks but the weather report warned of another storm.
We wanted to venture past Spanish Flat, maybe down to Big Flat, but the rain and the wind were returning so we concluded that the wind breaks at Spanish Flat would be the better choice. We set up camp and had enough time to hike down to Kinsey Creek.
This was a much better evening since we weren’t forced into our tents until the sun went down, but then we were in for another night of heavier winds with rain. The next morning better weather complete with rainbows offered great motivation for our return north.
The hike back past the tidal zone was just as interesting as the hike in. Rain, wind and sun made for an eventful day. Streams were flowing as high as ever which made for some exciting crossings. (Documented in video below)
We decided we were going to camp somewhere near Mattole this night in preparation to head out from the LCT on Sunday morning.
After getting through the tidal zone the search for an acceptable campsite began. The problem with the stretch around the Punta Gorda Lighthouse is the presence of sea lions and free range cattle. We also were bucking a head wind which we were really hoping to get some shelter from.
Once past the initial tidal zone we were competing with cattle for the only decent campsites. We ended up clearing cow patties so we could camp.
Our final night on the LCT was beautiful and dry. We hiked out the next morning with plans for some frisbee golf, brewpub nourishment and to search for a campground for the the evening.
My third Lost Coast Trail Trek was all that I could have hoped for. Bryce has become a trusted companion and the addition of Jeff was a benefit to all. My old body held up great and I can validate that my Oculus Supernatural exercise paid great dividends for my core and upper body. My knees were a bit sore but what the heck, first hike in 2021 was awesome.
Driving out from Mattole through Petrolia and over to Ferndale was as scenic as ever, complete with spotting the pickup in the tree.
We went on to play a round of Disc Golf in the Redwoods at Humboldt State University. Had an amazing dinner at the Mad River Brewery and got a great campsite at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. However, we should have checked the road conditions, because getting back to Oregon from this location turned out to be quite an adventure with Hwy 101 closed just to the north and then CA 96 closed near Happy Camp. So we ended up having to take CA 299 over to Redding, CA to then drive north via Hwy 5.
Previous Lost Coast Treks:
December of 2015 where I nearly did not survive: I Lost to the Lost Coast
February of 2020 when I returned to conquer the Lost Coast: Conquered the Lost Coast
I was able to reenact my 2015 route in 2022 with perfect weather. Here is the comparison
Stevens Pass to Stehekin
I had completed my warm up treks and was ready for a new Adventure. I had not done Stevens Pass north on the PCT, but I had done Suiattle River access to Rainy Pass, so that first portion of the PCT Section K was at the top of my list. It is a long stretch of 107 miles and lots of vertical, oh well, no problem other then carrying enough food. 
I planned for 10ish days knowing that I don’t have an appetite on the trail which would allow me to stretch my provisions if needed. Weather was going to be excellent except that it was warmer than usual. My travel logistics were easy starting with spending a night in Chelan Lake State Park, leaving my car at Lady of the Lake long term parking, catching the free metro link bus to Wenatchee and then taking a Trailways bus to Stevens Pass. I was on the PCT going north by 3:00 pm on July 27th. However, this trek seemed more daunting then usual. I had not been solo for a number of treks and the distance was 30% longer then I had even taken on. My mind was telling me how nice it would be to be sitting on my deck drinking a beer and my legs were already telling me they were tired. This is always the challenge, to force yourself to just do it and after a few days you know it was the right call, because getting out there is what it is all about. Unfortunately key comfort factors were not in my favor. Temperatures were flirting with 80 degrees and the bugs must have just hatched. The positive was that water was not an issue and the wild flowers were good. So I was “On the Trail Again”.
First Night’s Campsite
Lake Valhalla
My goal for the first night was Lake Valhalla which push me a bit. I chose a campsite in a meadow where I discovered just how aggressive the mosquitoes and flies were going to be. But I was generally so tired at my campsites that I was content with escaping the bugs and getting to sleep. My goal for the second day would be Grizzly Peak thinking that the bugs would be better up high. This was only about 9 miles and not that much vertical, but it was hot.
My campsite plans for Grizzly Pass were fine except that the bugs were worse up high, so I did not hang out side much to enjoy the view.
The third day took me past Pear Lake which appears to be very popular due to alternative trail access options. I decided not to climb to Lake Sally Ann and opted for a night at Pass Creek which turned out to be much better with respect to the bugs. The goal for the next day was Indian Pass.
I was told about a great campsite by taking a trail from the Indian Pass sign. Yep, it was primo complete with a toilet, campsites in a thicket of trees next to a large meadow. However, the bugs were the worst yet. That night was kinda weird because a herd of deer bedded down around my tent. The next day would be about Red Pass.
Campsite plans were to deal with the ford of White Chuck Creek and camp on the north side. This ford complete with a buckled bridge and getting your feet wet was rather refreshing with a nice campsite reward.
The next climb would be Fire Creek Pass but I was wearing down so I opted to camp somewhere around Fire Creek. This section was a low milage day for enjoyment, bugs were not bad and the views were awesome. My body was wearing down since I had burned all of my easy fat and I needed to start eating more.
Fire Creek Pass was another beautiful event with plenty of snow, probably the most difficult of the trek.
On the way down I got the word that Milk Creek was an overgrown mess and that I could get water on either side. So my plan was to cross Milk Creek get water and find a campsite somewhere up the other side. The problem though was that for a mile before Milk Creek the overgrowth was so bad it was essentially bushwacking and the same was true on the north side. It was getting late in the afternoon, it was hot and the bugs were horrible as I tried to fight my way up from Milk Creek.
I was really getting tired so I was beginning to consider camping on the trail if I had to. It did not look good for finding flat ground for a campsite, but then I see a sign that says “Toilet”. Thank you God, I really needed to stop, there was no toilet but there were a couple of campsites. Now I needed to recover for the climb over Grassy Point the next day.
This was a tough day, the body was dead but I think the gorgeous scenery carried me over Grassy Point knowing that it was then down to the Suiattle River with one more huge climb to go. 
It was around this part of the trek where I decided that I needed to finally put in a Hot Tub at our house. Thoughts of how I would install this tub provided a needed distraction for many days. I opted to camp next to Vista Creek and take on the Suiattle River crossing and climb the next day. Turned out to be a great campsite where I had my first fire.
At the major bridge over the Suiattle River I took a long break to recharge my body and iPhone. I had about a 3500′ climb ahead of me so I just wanted to knock off as many miles as I could before camping.
I ended up at the Skyline camping area where there was a large Forest Service work crew just setting up.
Suiattle Pass
Now the climb up and at least a little over Suiattle Pass. I was dragging but I made it to a nice campsite just over the pass complete with the most bugs of the trip.
It was Thursday August 6th and I had about 18 miles to go but it was mostly all downhill. I wanted to get close enough to High Bridge that I could catch the shuttle at noon on Friday. The hike down did have some more small climbs and the weather was changing to a light rain, plus I was running into more overgrown trail so I felt that camping at Swamp Creek 8 miles out from High Bridge would be fine. Plus I was soaked from the waist down due to the moisture off the overgrowth.
Almost to High Bridge
It was a nice last night on the trail even though it did rain off and on all night. But it was dry when I packed up for my final 8 “easy” miles to go. Not so easy as in some more up and downs with plenty of overgrown trail. The sight of High Bridge was so welcomed.
High Bridge
The normal Stehekin shuttle is not running this year, however, the Stehekin Valley Ranch is providing the service which gives you a hour layover at lunchtime to at the Ranch, just right for fueling up on a burger. I then stopped at the Stehekin Pastry Company where I had the best piece of Cherry Pie I think I have ever had.
I then set up camp in the National Park Lakeview Campground and proceeded to down a few brews from the store before it closed at 4:00 pm. The next morning I went back to the Bakery for breakfast and had a nice 2 mile walk back to get ready for my ferry ride back to Chelan.
Goodbye Stehekin
Overall a great trip, but it was also the most difficult trek I have ever completed and now 4 days later I am just starting to feel recovered.
The Adventure Continues 